Thursday, 31 March 2011

The Silver Bullet and the Cockroach Coach

Transport. It’s an interesting thing in another country. Now, before I describe to you the high style to which we have become accustomed, I do want to be clear that those of us here are choosing to ride in these vehicles. One could hire a car of any caliber here, for a price. Like most adopting families, we are trying to conserve resources…and thus are riding in lower priced options. This means a certain share of misery, but also lots of funny stories to blog about.

Everything here costs an arm and a leg. Transportation is no exception. We typically pay $10 an hour for a regular car, and $15 an hour for a mini-van. If there were no traffic here that might be reasonable, but frequently we are paying $10 to sit in one spot (with the engine off) for an hour…or two, and of course you pay for all of the time you spend sitting around at say, the embassy, which has the habit of telling folks to show up two hours before they actually intend to see you. All of the cars are old, none have air conditioning, and they are in various shapes. Also, we always always always pack in way more adults and children than the manufacturer of the car intended. Let me elaborate:

The Silver Bullet, as this car has been affectionately termed, is an old silver hatchback. It has no starter. Every morning that we take this car, we stand in front of the guesthouse while the car gets a little help, or rather a long push, from our translator and the men that work at the guesthouse. This isn’t inconvenient for the families, since we never have to push, but you always feel like you have to hop in quick lest the car roll away without you. It’s also a bit less fun when you are out and about and parked on a busy road or a crowded side street, and your driver has to pay people to push start you. There are no quick get- aways in this car. The Silver Bullet also has trouble making it up hills. It adds an air of excitement to an otherwise boring drive when the ole bullet significantly decelerates and makes tired coughing noises whenever we hit an incline. The Bullet seats five. We typically have six (three adults, three kids) in the back seat alone.

The Cockroach Coach/The Doo-Doo Mobile: This car is a red ‘80s Mazda, meant to seat five. The drivers name is Doo-Doo (might be spelled DuDu?), and yes, it is oft repeated joke that his name means poop in English preschool-ese. But guess what? We are all so close to insanity that we find that funny, every time. Now, the Doo-Doo mobile has been the Cockroach car for about a week, ever since someone saw a four inch long cockroach in the backseat, then found that very same cockroach CLINGING to their back after they exited the vehicle. Now no one can sit in the car without imagining cockroaches swarming them. When I ride in that car I am hyper-aware of every little sensation by my feet, and jumping at the slightest brush. Of course, when there are six people in the back seat of a Mazda, you can bet that there are many violations of personal space, and thus many opportunities for me to lunge forward and quickly examine my feet for creepy crawlies. The worst part of all of this is that the Doo-Doo mobile is absolutely the cleanest car we ride in. Doo-Doo takes really good care of his car. It always looks clean when it arrives, even though our kids were munching crumbly snacks in it the day before. So, knowing that he works so hard to keep his car clean, I feel terrible that riding in it gives me the heebie-jeebies. Also, the cockroach incident occurred soon after we left an orphanage, so it is entirely possible that the critter hitched a ride from there, and we have been blaming the car unfairly. Still, a four inch long roach is just not something you forget about easily.

The Vans- we have rented various vans over the past few days. There isn’t a lot of consistency to which van shows up, so I really haven’t nicknamed any of these yet. The vans provide plenty of humor though, believe you me. Most recently, we rode in a large van that had two standard bench rows, on in the front and one in the very back, and then a funny little bench in the middle of these. The best part of the little bench? It wasn’t bolted down. It was just a free-floating bench. Thus, when you got in or out, or were say, driving, it was liable to shift right under you, or pop up on one side when you least expected it. But by far, the best humor provided by the vans is the presence of a conductor. What, you may ask, is a conductor? Well, according to the law here, each van or taxi must have a conductor riding in it. It is the job of the conductor to navigate the van through traffic, which the conductor does by opening up the sliding door of the van, and standing with most of his body outside of the van, as the car weaves through traffic. Yes, you read that right. It is the LAW- it is required- for someone to be hanging out of the side of large vehicles here as they drive through town. Obviously when traffic is brisk they tend to pull themselves into the van and shut the door, but rarely is traffic brisk here. Thus, in every traffic jam you see taxis with young men hanging out the sides advising (read: yelling to) their driver about how they can best cut off other cars…very safe. Now, our conductor is a different story. I suspect that because we are visitors and unlikely to complain, our conductor does not feel the need to earn his pay. Thus, he spends all of his time sleeping. Without fail, he sits in the first bench seat, all the way inside (so we don’t disturb him as we get in or out) and so that he can’t feasibly get to the door to do his job when we are in traffic. Not that any of us actually want the door of our moving car hanging open…but seriously, we pay this dude to sleep in the car and take up space, and space is a precious commodity in any car. But, it’s the law. Oddly enough, whenever we are stopped for a long time, the conductor always manages to find the energy to wake up and hang out with the driver.

Well, that is a brief overview of how we get from place to place. When I get home I will be so so thankful for our Corolla. Who cares if it is ten years old- IT HAS AC!!!

Another Day

We had an activity planned for today, but we were scheduled to leave at 8am...and Mtoto and I weren't exactly up at 8am, so we skipped it. It was nice to sleep in, and, fortuitously, breakfast was still out at 8:15 when we dragged ourselves downstairs (it usually disappears at 8). We lazed around all morning, which was awesome. We are both mostly recovered from yesterday's wretched drives. I'm great, but Mtoto has developed what I think is a heat rash. I let him air out a bit today, and I hope that it will clear up soon.

We are continuing to w-a-i-t. No news thus far on the progress of our visa. They have been taking three weeks lately. Jeff is able to switch off with me after we have the visa, but we have to wait until the visa is finished for him to head out. Then I will head home and he will get to enjoy the mosquitoes for a few weeks.

Tonight we are having a little celebration here at the guesthouse. One of the families who has been here FOREVER gets to go home tomorrow! And, I get to inherit their ant spray!!!!

Wednesday, 30 March 2011

Stick a Fork in Me

I'm done.

So, today we spent way too many hours in the car, sitting in ridiculous traffic, inhaling repulsive amounts of smog, with very little benefit. I'm reassessing my get-out-of-the-guesthouse at all costs strategy. It isn't always worth it.

I am exhausted. I am getting a migraine. Mtoto and I might both be a little dehydrated. It is time for bed. Pray for a good night's sleep, our health, and our sanity. I'm feeling so done in right now.

I'll post a little more about what driving around here is like when I have more energy. I'm considering titling that post "The Cockroach Coach"- how's that for a teaser?

Tuesday, 29 March 2011

Scabies Carpet

Perhaps you are wondering what those of us here at the guest house do in our ample, nay, excessive free time. The answer is hang out, which might also be described as sitting around.

When you are in-country waiting for the wheels of bureaucracy to turn slowly and eventually spew forth your mandatory paperwork, you have almost nothing to do. As I've shared, we have had a few orphanage service trips, and have more coming up, but at night after dinner, or in the morning when you are waiting two hours for your driver to show up there is very little to do. Today we had a trip planned to visit an orphanage outside of the city, but we woke up to a torrential downpour and were informed about mid-morning that the roads were impassable. Thus, we have a whole day to hang out around the scabies carpet. We also played bananagrams (and I won).

Let me give you a few fun facts about scabies. They are contagious. It seems they are mostly spread through bed linens and from those who are in very close contact. Scabies can't live too long away from their host, so if you can manage to avoid something infested with scabies for a few days they will die. Or, you can wash and iron anything that has come in contact with the scabies. Now, most of the kids who have scabies here at the guest house got them elsewhere. Mtoto is the only one who has recently contracted scabies, and we suspect that he caught it from the scabies carpet.

The guest house has a few different levels of rooms (and, as previously discussed, toilet paper). One of the mid-range rooms is actually a suite, with two bedrooms that share a bathroom and a sitting room that is sporadically air-conditioned (depending on our power source and if the ac unit is working properly). All of the families here tend to hang out in this room, congregating around a patch-work safari rug and curled up on worm eaten leather couches. Here we discuss the many glories of this country, laugh at absurd jokes that might not be funny anywhere but here (Bon Soir Ladies and Barbie Movies), commiserate over our parenting fails, and, on serious note, spend a lot of time discussing how to help kids here and improve conditions. One thing I have noticed, is it is sad how quickly your standards go downhill here, especially for cleanliness. Hence, the scabies carpet.

We suspect that Mtoto caught scabies from playing on the carpet in the hang-out room. All the kids play on it like crazy, and it might not be the cleanest carpet in the world. Or Africa. Ever since we decided that this might be the case, the carpet has been referred to as "scabies carpet." Everyone is being a little more careful on it, or at least we were for a few hours. We even talked about possibilities for cleaning the carpet- could the carpet be ironed? Probably not. Then desperation set in and we let the kids play on it again, scabies and all. "Scabies" is also starting to be applied as an adjective to many things. Scabies couch. Scabies towel. Scabies beach ball.

Speaking of downhill standards, I've decided that Mtoto can sleep in his bed barricaded by pillows and surrounded by mosquito net without me watching him. Sitting upstairs during all of his naps and at night was too isolating. Since he is barely able to roll over (yay for orphanage delays), I figure he will probably not be able to roll off of the bed. Mtoto took his scabies treatment well. Hopefully it worked. I am thankful that his scabies are new, and new scabies don't have the same itch-factor as established scabies, so he has been able to sleep well at night. We wake up a few times for bottles, but I am managing to get enough sleep. It is amazing how quickly you can adapt- now that I'm used to sleeping dripping in sweat with the little dude (who is like a little heater) curled up next to me, it isn't nearly as bad. Although the millipede/centipede/nasty weird bug thingy that I killed last night in our room was pretty gross and I may have spend a few minutes worrying about whether his entire family was going to come after me to avenge his death. Happily, they did not. We survived to live another day, to tell another tale, and to spend more time sitting around the scabies carpet.

Monday, 28 March 2011

Today's Adventures

Today we got out again- this time we tagged along on another family's embassy appointment so that we could go shopping and have lunch at the big store by the embassy. I went with S and her little girl J, and of course, Mr. Mtoto was also along for the ride. The store by the embassy has two levels. The bottom level has a grocery store and a café, and the upstairs has smaller specialty stores and a restaurant. The restaurant had been recommended to us, so that is where we spent some time. Really, it was rather a long time. I had forgotten exactly how slow service usually is at restaurants in Africa. The food was good though, and it was fun to get out.

After lunch we went shoe shopping for J. Her mom brought shoes, but they were a bit too big, and the shoes she wore home from the orphanage fell apart after a day or two. So, we went into one of the specialty shoes stores. S picked up a little sandal, tried it on J's foot, and asked how much it was. Fifty dollars. We knew shoes would be expensive, but that was a bit steeper than she was expecting. So she picked up the sandal next to it, which looked much more poorly made. How much? One hundred and twenty dollars. Needless to say, we left the shoe store empty handed.

Now, in contrast, we then went to the fabric store a few doors down. I bought 24 yards of African fabric for twenty four dollars and seventy-five cents. Granted, this is cheap fabric, but still, fabric for a dollar a yard and shoes for one hundred a pair. It just doesn't make sense!

We also went food shopping downstairs. It was quite an adventure. Instead of listing prices, the store has a letter and number for each item. If you want to know how much it costs you have to look it up on a list that hangs on the end of each aisle. This makes comparison shopping next to impossible, and guarantees you will spent more money than you think you are spending. Happily for my wallet, I couldn't find most of the things I wanted, so I only bought a few overpriced apples, a bag of Doritos that cost about as much as gold, some ginger soda, and some jam.

After the market we cruised by the doctor because one of the little girls was feeling poorly. While there I even got to read a magazine in English! It was an US Weekly from October. Now I am all caught up on what celebrities were wearing six months ago. I also found out that Jennifer Garner is just like me because she puts sunscreen on her little girl AND lets her eat ice cream. I wonder if people in other countries pick up these magazines and think WHY ON EARTH do Americans buy this stuff?

We had a pizza party again for dinner tonight. This was top notch for me because spaghetti was on the normal menu, and I am not fond of that dish. Then, Mtoto and I began our war against scabies, which will hopefully be done after tonight. Now, you may wonder why I didn't mention that Mtoto had scabies in my first posts. Well, I didn't say anything about it because he didn't have scabies then, but he has them now. Yes, I took my poor child out of his orphanage, where he was critter-free, and brought him to a western-style guest house where he contracted scabies. To be fair to the guest house, the other kids here have it and they all play together. His case is very mild thus far, and I am hoping and praying that we are nipping it in the bud. Mtoto is also doing some teething and having some stomach issues. I don't think he has any parasites, but something is upsetting his tummy. I'm hoping it isn't the formula. His diaper rash also took a turn for the worse for a while, but I have been very careful with it the last few days, both with keeping him dry and spending hours airing him out, and it is beginning to show some signs of improvement. The room is what it is. Getting things done is far more work than it was before. We are very hot and having difficulties sleeping in a sweaty dog-pile in the center of a twin-bed (with a mosquito net you have to be very careful that your skin is not touching any part of the net). The net is working to keep the lizards out. I have yet to see any lizards, but they are leaving their poop everywhere, so I know they are here. Mercifully, I have not seen any cockroaches yet. I am sure they are there, but I feel so much better not actually seeing them. Thank you for all of your prayers. I am hanging in there. We've had a few good meals in the last two days, so I have been full for twenty-four hours straight. Not feeling hungry all the time has been a nice improvement. Tomorrow we are taking a trip to another orphanage outside of the city to do some work there. I am really looking forward to it, because I've been told that the woman who runs it has an enormous heart and the kids there are so loved. The car ride promises to be an adventure (pray we actually make it, some of our transportation has been a bit questionable).

Sunday, 27 March 2011

A Different Perspective

This morning started out wonderfully with a trip the church pastored by one of the men who has assisted us with our adoption. We went to a service in the local dialect, but had a translator with us so we got to hear the sermon (Abraham/Faith= timely for most of us), as well as some of the announcements. I had no idea what the choirs were singing, but the music was beautiful. During the service all of the Americans had to stand up and introduce themselves (since it was obvious that we were visitors). Everyone was very welcoming, and after the service finished we went through a very large receiving line and shook everyone's hands, then went back inside where they served us each a cold Fanta. I thought this was very gracious and welcoming of them. I can't tell you how good that drink tasted, because man was it HOT in that building. I almost didn't make it through the two hour service because of the heat, but thankfully I did not keel over.

After church a few of us were sitting around at our guesthouse reviewing our experience thus far. Everyone there had been in country between one and two weeks, and all felt that our trips had been harder than we expected. Having spent a long amount of time in a developing country during T's adoption, and having been amply warned that conditions in Mtoto's country were far worse, I thought I would be prepared for the conditions here. I wasn't. I think I expected it to be about five times harder than Uganda here, but it has felt about ten times harder. My equation this afternoon was this: take all of the negatives of Uganda (those typical to most developing countries)- the trash, the smog, the trash-burning smoke, the poverty and desperation, the worn down buildings and streets, and multiply it by ten, then subtract all the beauty and hope we encountered, and that describes Mtoto's country. Everywhere we have been all we have witnessed is desolation. Yes, we have seen pockets of hope- in the wonderful Christian people we have met who are working so hard and so selflessly on behalf of orphans here- but overall it has been a very difficult and depressing experience.

I think this has been especially hard on me because we had such a positive experience in Uganda and because we fell head over heels in love with that country. Ask me to tell you about it and I might mention the trash and smog, but mostly you will hear about how gorgeous it is (easily one of the most beautiful places I have ever been) and how amazing the people were that we met there. After almost a full week in Mtoto's country I was really beginning to feel that we would have to either curtail our glowing reviews of Uganda, so as not to make Mtoto feel bad in the future, or else be really creative when talking about his country. But seriously, how much mileage can I get out of the fact that Mtoto's country has superior hot sauce? I want to be head over heels in love with Mtoto's country too, but am having a really hard time of it.

Enter A.

A is a friend of one of the families we are staying with. A grew up in Mtoto's country, but moved to America, and is currently here on business. His wife and kids are currently in town visiting him. This afternoon he graciously offered to show us around a bit. He picked us up in his car, which has air conditioning- a luxury we have not seen in a week- and took us on a tour. It was amazing. He gave us a totally different perspective. He showed us that this city hopes.

We saw a side of the city that we not seen- well tended gardens, paved streets, homes, new buildings, a beautiful fountain, some government buildings, the national stadium, a brand new hospital, and a big hotel. We went to lunch and had the first good food any of us have eaten in some time. He took us to purchase the best bread in the country, and told us where we might find other things that we thought didn't exist here (good butter! tasty cheese!). We went to the market to look at art and carvings and all the usual tourist junk. We were hounded and harassed by the vendors who wanted to sell us everything for "a very good price" which was easily 5 times what the item was worth. We had so much fun.

This afternoon we got to see the best face of this city. Is it the most real face? Decidedly not. The vast majority of people here could never afford the restaurant we ate in, even though our meals cost maybe five dollars. They can't afford to stay at the big hotel, and frankly, neither can I. It is expensive. They can't join the swim and tennis clubs, or purchase million dollar homes with well-manicured gardens, or fritter their money away on overpriced goods at the craft market. But, they can enjoy some of the projects we saw- the roads, the hospital, and the gardens. More than that, we saw a small hint of progress, of beauty, of hope for the future. The investments we saw mean jobs. Jobs mean increased standards of living and the prospect of something better. Investment means that someone believes in this country. A's son told us that they are working hard to bring the US to Africa, to make things better here. They believe there is light in the institutional darkness. It may be weak. It may be at the mercy of politicians and diplomats and warlords. But they believe the light is there. You can just see the glimmers of it breaking through the smog, and the dirt, and the burning trash. Today, I saw that. Now I believe too.

New Room Update

Awesome things overheard in my new room:

Hey, look, you have a crushed lizard in your door. All dried up. It's an old one.

Are you planning on putting your bed against the wall? (Why yes, I was, so my child won't fall out in the middle of the night). Hmmmm, you might not want to do that, because you'll wake up with lizards on you.

That's right. My excellent plan to sleep with the bed up against the wall and me between Mtoto and the floor has been possibly thwarted by wall climbing lizards. I say possibly, because since I have no other alternative we are trying it anyway, using our mosquito net tucked into the mattress (instead of brushing up against the floor) as a potential lizard barrier. We'll know if it works if we wake up lizard free. Otherwise...I may need some new suggestions, and no, the floor is not an option. I've heard the floor has cochroaches and mice. Yum.

As for the bathroom...I barricade Mtoto on the bed if I need to go, and I found (a wonderful, generous, helpful) someone to watch him while I shower in the morning. I loved all the ideas...but trust me, the bugs/grime/general grossness on this bathroom floor mean he should not sit on it, and there are no extra towels or dresser drawers to be found here, only closets as far as the eye can see. We do have laundry baskets, but children are not allowed in them. I may not be showering tomorrow anyway, since we have lost our city power...and no city power means no hot water.

The ant invasion has already begun. I am armed with bug spray and bounce sheets (which supposedly keep them away...although I thought those were for the mosquitos), and have already destroyed many a sad ant life. The battle will really rage if they go after Mtoto's formula/bottle tonight. I will not be in a merciful mood at 3am this morning.

Happily, I can anticipate sleeping because Mtoto stayed up for his late bottle. So, unless a rocking party at the bar accross the way, or, (worse because it's louder/longer lasting) the all-night church decides to hold a service, I may actually get some solid sleep tonight. Mtoto stayed up with me to watch a movie. Since I wanted to watch it, and he can't be on the twin bed all alone, I decided it was time for him to experience the silver screen. Apparently the guesthouse will often show a movie on Saturday nights, which helps break up the monotony. We even had butter flavored microwave popcorn in a big plastic washtub. It was so delicious. Mtoto was unimpressed and fell asleep after a bit, and only woke up to eat and score some kisses.

One last bit of new room trivia. There are different grades of toilet paper here at the guesthouse reserved for different types of guests. In my old room, I merited soft white toilet paper. Now? One ply,rough, recycled, pink toilet paper. Seriously, it's pink. PINK! Why?

The new room is swarming with mosquitos because it is in an unscreened area of the house. Thus, it is time for me to retire to the safety of my mosquito net. Despite the thick fog of Eau De DEET wafting around me, the little buggers are still after my blood.